024 w/ Udo Neumann: How world champion climbers train

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Meet Udo Neumann: Author, filmmaker, creative mind and coach of the German national bouldering team (his athletes places 1st and 3rd in the world championships this year). This was a fun and educational conversation and I encourage you to scroll down to the quick reference guide below to check out all the topics we covered!

Memorable Quotes by Udo:

“Anyone interested in performing at their highest level has to do ALL the work.” 

“In complex activities like climbing, it’s always your least developed skill that holds you back.”

“In bouldering you need a lot of flexibility – you have to be flexible in your mind.”

“As an athlete, you shouldn’t call what you do ‘training.’ If you call it training, your mindset is already off.”

Buy Udo’s latest book Art of Bouldering:
http://artofbouldering.com/

Connect with Udo:
http://udini.com/
https://www.youtube.com/user/therealudini

Please be sure to rate and review the show. It helps other people find it much easier! I’m aiming to get 50 ratings by the end of October and I’m currently at 41!
http://wellroundedathlete.net/rate/

12 Reasons you should join my email list:
http://wellroundedathlete.net/email/

Connect with Justin
http://wellroundedathlete.net/connect/

Quick Reference Guide:

1:18 – meet Udo “Udini” Neumann, coach for the german national bouldering team and polymath
3:48 – Have you heard of buildering? Udo was doing it in the early 1980’s
4:27 – How Udo met Dale Goddard
5:51 – How Udo transformed from performance nazi to “left wing” mover
9:23 – The lessons Udo learned from Dale Goddard
12:42 – How Udo coached Jan Hojer to win the bouldering world championships
15:33 – How Udo makes his athletes feel it’s okay to experiment and make mistakes
16:32 – Why muscular relaxation is just as important as muscular contraction
21:12 – The fine line between control, and losing control in your movement
22:42 – Indoor vs outdoor climbing
29:05 – Why indoor climbing is breeding a better generation of climbers
31:15 – Why some of the world’s best climbers are interested in parkour
34:50 – Why an amateur climber beat a two-time silver medal olympic gymnast in small ninja warrior comp
36:50 – How Udo would approach training children and adolescent athletes
42:12 – Why early athletic specialization can destroy young athletes (physically and mentally)
44:58 – Check out Udo’s latest project Stuntwerk, and climbing 2.0
47:22 – Why Udo doesn’t believe in ‘training’
56:33 – Udo’s advice to new adult climbers

023 w/ Kelly Starrett: The DIY Manual for Injury Prevention

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downloadMemorable Quotes by Kelly:

“All humans should be able to perform basic maintenance on themselves”

“Don’t be a modern human…you have to MOVE”

“We are wired for MOVEMENT. The modern [human] brain is bootstrapped on top of the movement brain”

“You’ve got to be responsible for all the tissues from your head to your feet.”

“Unless It’s traumatic or pathological, it’s preventable.”

Buy Kelly’s new book (Ready To Run):
http://amzn.to/10Wa6Hp

Connect with Kelly:
http://www.mobilitywod.com/
https://twitter.com/mobilitywod

Red Revive – use coupon code “movesmart” for 25% off
http://www.redrevive.com/

Please be sure to rate and review the show. It helps other people find it much easier! I’m aiming to get 50 ratings by the end of October and I’m currently at 44!
http://wellroundedathlete.net/rate/

12 Reasons you should join my email list:
http://wellroundedathlete.net/email/

Connect with Justin
http://wellroundedathlete.net/connect/

Quick Reference Guide:

3:23 – Why being an injured pro athlete helped drive Kelly to be  a great PT
5:57 – Kelly’s struggle to reconcile his life as a physio with high level sports training
7:25 – Why strength training can reach a point of diminishing returns
9:34 – Defining “good mechanics” and how you can apply them to your movement
16:16 – Why 80% of runners get injured in a year
19:21 – How to build good movement mechanics from a young age
21:03 – Why Kelly bought standup desks for his daughter’s ENTIRE classroom
27:19 – Why your non exercise movement determines the patterns for ALL your movement
31:27 – Why all humans must be taught proper movement skills
36:33 – Why modeling behavior is the same as coaching…and why you need to beware of your movement models
40:11 – How to find and resolve the movement issues YOU need to be working on
42:07 – Unless your issue is traumatic or pathological, it’s preventable
50:24 – Kelly’s practical tips for you
54:23 –  The tools you need in your personal mobility toolbox (and the free household versions you already have)
56:18 – The great stuff Kelly has going on over the next few months

022 w/ Dave Dellanave: Biofeedback Testing and Why Your Body Is Smarter Than You

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In episode 22 of the Move Smart Podcast, we chat with Dave Dellanave. He is most known for his training methods and use of biofeedback testing.

Here’s what we talked about:

– What biofeedback is and why you should be using it
– How to practically implement biofeedback training into your program
– Why biofeedback testing can give your body exactly the movements it needs
– Why old forgotten strongman lifts are so valuable
– Why training symmetrically is not the best thing for an asymmetrical body
– How your work life habits may dictate how you should train
– Why elite athletes all have their own unique form and “style”
– Building “Antifragility” into your lifestyle and training
– Dave’s book recommendations and advice for you in your training

Connect with Dave Dellanave:
http://www.dellanave.com/
https://www.facebook.com/movementminneapolis

Red Revive – use coupon code “movesmart” for 25% off
http://www.redrevive.com/

Please be sure to rate and review the show. It helps other people find it much easier! I’m aiming to get 50 ratings by the end of October and I’m currently at 44!
http://wellroundedathlete.net/rate/

12 Reasons you should join my email list:
http://wellroundedathlete.net/email/

Connect with Justin
http://wellroundedathlete.net/connect/

Books mentioned:

Antifragile: http://amzn.to/ZOctux

Thinking Fast and Slow: http://amzn.to/1xaqq0C

Tribal Leadership: http://amzn.to/1ove5VG

The Dip: http://amzn.to/1t5AgBW

021 w/ Daniel Coyle: How To Develop World-Class Skills in Anything

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Memorable Quotes by Daniel:

“Practice makes myelin, and myelin makes perfect.”

“Progress happens on the edge of your ability.”

“Struggle is a non-optional neurological requirement for skill.”

“Skill is contagious.”

“Luxury is a motivational narcotic.”

 “Strive to be your own coach.”

Buy The Talent Code:
http://amzn.to/1rvaZvb

Connect with Daniel Coyle:
http://thetalentcode.com/
https://twitter.com/DanielCoyle
https://www.facebook.com/thetalentcode

Red Revive – use coupon code “movesmart” for 25% off
http://www.redrevive.com/

Please be sure to rate and review the show. It helps other people find it much easier! I’m aiming to get 50 ratings by the end of October and I’m currently at 44!
http://wellroundedathlete.net/rate/

12 Reasons you should join my email list:
http://wellroundedathlete.net/email/

Connect with Justin
http://wellroundedathlete.net/connect/

Quick reference guide:

1:45 – Meet Daniel Coyle
3:17 – The biological secret to skill (what is myelination?)
5:32 – What they found in Einstein’s brain that was the key to his genius
6:50 – Developing skills as an adult (and why mindset is key)
8:25 – Why a formal, organized approach may not always be best to learning new skills
9:37 – “Filling your windshield” and social learning
10:03 – How to accelerate your learning as an adult
10:55 – How to improve your learning speed 10x (and why you should never ignore your mistakes)
15:15  – Why struggle is a non-optional neurological requirement for skill
17:39 –  How to know if you’re struggling too much (or not enough)
19:58 – How Daniel applies these principles in his own life (and with his kids)
22:15 – Why talent hotbeds are not evenly distributed throughout geography and time
25:15 – Why Chinese Olympic divers train with their junior athletes
26:32 – How to create conditions for success
28:32 – Why your practice space shouldn’t be luxurious
32:21 – Why experts practice (and talk about practice) differently than novices
33:54 – “Chunking” and why you have to break down skills to individual atoms
38:19 – Why you need to perfect the “simple” chunks
39:31 – The 4 virtues that make a great coach
43:31 – Hard skills vs soft skills and why self-taught gymnasts and violinists are rare
47:07 –  Daniel’s book recommendation and advice to you

Mentioned in the podcast:

10 Surprising Truths from the World’s Most Successful Talent Hotbed: http://bit.ly/ZtJ9ZL

24 Rules for Becoming an Adult Prodigy: http://bit.ly/1w80T80

How We Learn: The Surprising Truth About When, Where, and Why It Happens: http://amzn.to/1veiq00

Daniel Coyle’s amazing golf ball skills: http://bit.ly/1vw9THp

Story about Kobe Bryant’s relentless work ethic: http://bit.ly/1Cngy5p

020 w/ Katy Bowman: Movement Nutrition and Mechanical Diseases

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Katy Bowman is a biomechanist and one of the only ones in the world that looks into the mechanical causes of disease and how it’s not enough to get an hour or two of exercise…we have to move more (and better) and get the movement nutrition that our biology craves.

Quotes by Katy
“You adapt to what you do most frequently….not what you do with the best of intentions.”

“We’re bent on trying to fix our problems, without changing the environment in which the problem was created.”

“You have ‘casted’ your body by walking only on flat, level ground.”

“We’re all overdosing on Vitamin Sit On Your Butt.”

> Listen in iTunes <

Buy Katy’s new book Move Your DNA:
http://goo.gl/kR1V2Z

Connect with Katy Bowman:
http://www.katysays.com/
https://www.facebook.com/AlignedandWellProgram
https://twitter.com/AlignedandWell

Red Revive – use coupon code “movesmart” for 25% off
http://www.redrevive.com/

Please be sure to rate and review the show. It helps other people find it much easier! I’m aiming to get 50 ratings by the end of October and I’m currently at 38!
http://wellroundedathlete.net/rate/

12 Reasons you should join my email list:
http://wellroundedathlete.net/email/

Connect with Justin
http://wellroundedathlete.net/connect/

Quick reference guide:

1:29 – What is “nutritious” movement?
3:20 – Why movement sciences are 70 years behind
4:02 – What does it mean to “Move Your DNA”
5:13 – Mechanotransduction: what it is and why it’s MASSIVELY important to understand
8:08 – The difference between weight and load (you must understand this for injury prevention)
10:11 – “It’s not the load that breaks you down, it’s the way you carry it”
11:00 – Why putting on a backpack is really putting on 1 trillion backpacks – one on every cell
12:39 – Why mechanical diseases affect every tissue of your body
15:13 – Practical tips for getting your essential movement nutrition (that don’t take any extra time)
18:35 – What we can learn about movement and tissue health from killer whales (and why their fins flop in captivity)
22:00 – The problem with most modern research in physical therapy and orthopedic health
23:49 – Why no single sport or activity can give you all the movement nutrition you need
25:52 – Why walking is a movement “superfood”
27:12 – …but why not all walking is created equal
28:44 – How you’re unknowing immobilizing parts of your body
29:30 – Why your eyes are probably suffering from mechanical diseases
32:04 – Why the topic of vision health is near and dear to me
34:02 – Why corrective exercises aren’t enough to fix you (you have to change your environment)
37:33 – Why strong tissue next to weak tissue increases your chance of injury (which is why your calluses tear)
40:54 – Why “crosstraining” is insufficient
44:13 – The true definition of exercise
48:54 – Why skin is an often overlooked piece of the kinetic chain
52:30 – Why calluses are GOOD…if they form properly
55:04 – Katie’s advice and book recommendation